Braising for a Hearty Autumn Supper

Since this is a hearty meal, offer a refreshing salad of fruit. Make it several hours in advance and refrigerate until serving.

Braising meats is a favorite cooking method, especially when heartier fare can be enjoyed in cooler months. It’s a simple process. Meat — pork, veal, beef, poultry or wild game — is seasoned, seared in hot oil and simmered long and slow with liquid (broth, water, wine, beer or a combination) in a vessel with a lid (think Dutch oven) or slow cooker. It’s a great method to cook less expensive, tougher cuts of meat and the result is both tender and flavorful. 

One of my favorite dishes to serve this time of year is ossobuco, an Italian dish made of veal shanks braised with olive oil, white wine, stock, tomatoes, garlic and other good stuff. Traditionally, it is garnished with gremolata (or gremolada) which is made of minced parsley, lemon peel and garlic.

Starter

Strawberry, Kiwi and Orange Salad

1½ cups fresh orange juice
1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons arrowroot
2 tablespoons orange liqueur
4 navel oranges
4 kiwis, peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
5 pints strawberries, hulled and rinsed in cool water
Fresh mint for garnish

1. In a nonreactive saucepan, combine juices and sugar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer about 10 minutes.

2. Dilute arrowroot in one tablespoon cold water. Stir into syrup and return to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in orange liqueur. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.

3. Peel oranges, remove white pith. Cut into sections. Toss oranges, kiwi and strawberries with dressing. Garnish with mint sprigs. Makes about 8 servings

Main Dish

Ossobuco

4 pounds veal shanks, cut into 2-inch pieces
¼ cup all-purpose flour, salt, cayenne and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onions
½ cup minced celery
2 medium carrots, sliced into ¾-inch pieces
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 cup dry white wine
1½ cups stock (equal parts chicken and beef broth)
1½ cups canned crushed tomatoes and juice
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon dried rosemary

Gremolata

2 tablespoons grated lemon rind
¼ cup parsley, minced
1 garlic clove, minced

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Dredge veal in flour and season with salt and peppers.

2. Heat butter and olive oil in heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Brown veal. Transfer to roasting pan. Add water to skillet to deglaze, then add onions, celery, carrots and garlic. Reduce heat to medium. Cook for 5 minutes, or until vegetables are slightly soft. Transfer mixture to roasting pan.

3. Put roasting pan over medium heat. Add wine and cook for 1 minute. Add stock, tomatoes and herbs. Cover roasting pan. Bake for 1½ to 2 hours, or until veal is tender. Remove fat that has risen to surface. To thicken sauce, cook over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. To prepare gremolata, combine lemon, parsley and garlic. Serve sauce over veal, garnish with gremolata and accompany with risotto or pasta. Makes 4 to 6 servings

On the Side

Classic Risotto

1½ quarts chicken stock, heated
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely-minced
1½ cups Arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish
Truffle oil, for drizzling (optional)

1. Heat chicken broth to simmering in saucepan and leave on very low heat. In a heavy-based, wide saucepan heat olive oil, add onions and cook until golden over medium heat. Add rice and stir to coat each and every grain with oil.

2. Add wine and cook until it evaporates. Add 1 cup of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon to mix. Allow liquid to be absorbed, add ½ cup stock, stirring until evaporated. Continue adding broth by ½ cupfuls, stirring after each addition. Continue until rice begins to soften. Last addition of stock should just absorb into rice, leaving it slightly tight.

3. Stirring quickly with a wooden spoon, add butter and cream. Stir in herbs and cheese. Remove from heat and adjust seasoning to taste. Serve topped with freshly grated cheese and drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Makes 4 servings